A Wedding Weekend in Charleston

I'm heading down to Charleston this weekend for a dear friend's wedding. I can't wait to spend time with old friends, eat at some of my favorite restaurants, and see what's new in the city. By the way, did you see that Charleston was once again voted the best city in the U.S. by Conde Nast Traveler readers? I've gotta vote for Richmond now, but this video makes a pretty compelling argument.


A Love Letter to Charleston from Charleston Area CVB on Vimeo.

P.S. My Visitor's Guide to Charleston.
P.P.S. I'm doing some writing for Wedding Paper Divas, and got two articles published this week: How to Brand Your Wedding on Amorology and The Weatherproof Bride on Smitten.

Finkelstein's Center's awkwardly adorable creatures

Is it weird for an adult to want to buy stuffed animals? Not if they're as cute as Michelle Jewell's "Finks." I recently interviewed the artist for Charleston magazine. My favorite quote:

"No one questions the amount of stuffed sloths you own when you’re a toy maker. If I quit, I would just be weird again."

Read the story here and check out her Etsy shop here.

The Charleston Connection

I'm loving our New England adventure, but I'll be honest: Sometimes I miss Charleston. The little Southern city that was our home for seven years is known for getting into people's bones, and I don't think I escaped its reach. I'll have to start planning another visit to the Lowcountry soon. {Photos by me.}

Charleston to Boston.

via.

It's hard to believe that it's been two months since I went from that  /\/\/\/\ to this \/\/\/\/.

via.

I don't want to say that moving was easy, because it really, really wasn't. Moving 1,000 miles away rarely is. But at the same time, it's crazy how drastically my life changed in just a few days.

Two months ago I was living in Charleston, working at a local newspaper and living in a little 100-year-old house on the outskirts of downtown. My days were made up of two-minute commutes, long walks under the live oaks, $4 cocktails with friends, and small-town gossip. Life was easy, and it was slow, and I was happy. But ready for a change.

Our new house is about five miles from the heart of Boston, yet a 15-to-45-minute commute by bus, depending on traffic. I work as an editor in an office surrounded by hip restaurants with $15 cocktails, and my daily walk takes me through the skyscrapers of the Financial District and past the Tea Party Museum over Fort Point Channel. In the evenings and on weekends, we've had pasta in the North End, ridden the ferry to Spectacle Island, explored the Museum of Fine Arts, eaten fish tacos in Fenway, and taken day trips to Newburyport, Marblehead, and Walden Pond.

It all still feels very new, and I'm still catching up. But every now and then I stop for a minute to think about how far I've come in a few short weeks — whether I'm hurrying along to catch the T, organizing a photo shoot at my new job, or just walking through the streets of a city I can now call home.

Visitor's Guide to Charleston.

In my six years of living in Charleston, one of my favorite things to do was share the city with visitors. It was part of my job as an editor at the local paper, and it's also something I loved doing when friends came to town. So as my parting gift, I wanted to leave behind a little guide to the city, from someone who's truly loved living here. Though I'm moving on to new adventures, Charleston will always be one of my favorite places.

STAY

zero george.

You can save money by staying off the peninsula, but if you want the true Charleston experience, spring for a hotel downtown. If money isn't an issue, try Zero George, the Restoration on King, or Charleston Place. On a budget? Check out the NotSo Hostel in Cannonborough/Elliotborough, one of the city's coolest up-and-coming districts.

EAT

the ordinary.

Let's not fool ourselves: You came to Charleston to eat. And you could eat all day every day and still not run out of options. There are high-end restaurants with celebuchefs where you can spend your paycheck on a memorable meal, and then there are the old-school meat-and-threes where you can get a hearty supper for around $5. 

Some of the more affordable options include the Rarebit (diner-style food and Moscow Mules in a Mad Men setting), Five Loaves Cafe (get the tomato tarragon soup with crab), Butcher and Bee (open for lunch and late-night), Martha Lou's (fried chicken!), and the Marina Variety Store, a truly authentic little dive right on the water. For seafood, head off the peninsula to Shem Creek or Bowen's Island, both located on the picturesque tidal marshes.

the rarebit.

I really encourage people to budget for at least one big night out at a high-end restaurant. Husk, FIG, Macintosh, and the Ordinary (get the oyster sliders) are some of the most buzzed-about restaurants in town, and you won't be disappointed at any of them. Hank's is great for seafood, Charleston Grill for a side of jazz with your food, and Rue de Jean for French food and French 75s on the patio.

If you've got a sweet tooth, some of my favorite places are Sugar for cupcakes, WildFlour for sticky buns (but only on Sundays!), and Paolo's for gelato. Plus the coconut cake at Peninsula Grill is worth a trip in itself.

DRINK

gin joint.

Drinking is almost as important as eating in Charleston — it's all part of the experience. As a cocktail lover, some of my favorite places to indulge in fancy cocktails are the Gin Joint, the Cocktail Club, and Belmont. Fish, Social, and Two Boroughs Larder have great happy hour specials, and Closed for Business has a massive beer selection — you can even order your beer in a huge boot-shaped glass. If you like wine, go to Bin 152 and split a bottle and a cheese plate with a friend while you people-watch.

When you need a caffeine fix, Kudu is a coffeeshop with a lovely courtyard (especially when they have a bluegrass band playing), Brown's Court has cute porches and amazing cookies, and City Lights is a great alternative to Starbucks in the heart of the tourist district near the Market. Black Tap Coffee is another gorgeous coffeeshop — we hear their mint julep coffee is addictive.

DO

king street.

Charleston is a supremely walkable city, and when people ask me what to do while they're in town, my answer is simple: Walk. Find a free parking spot down on the Battery and just lose yourself in the quiet streets South of Broad, gawking at the historic houses and gardens. Walk the length of King Street for all kinds of shops and restaurants, and stop by City Market if you're feeling touristy.

Keep your eye on the calendar — if you're in town the first Friday of the month, chances are the galleries will be open late with free wine and cheese for the Art Walk. If it's the second Sunday of the month, King Street will be closed to cars so shoppers can frolic in the street. The farmers market is in Marion Square every Saturday from April through December, and there are always plenty of festivals and events going on nearly every weekend, so pick up the City Paper for info.

When you're done with downtown (which could take a day if you hurried), venture out a bit to places like Magnolia Cemetery, the plantations (Middleton Place is my favorite), and, of course, the beach. A morning by the water on Sullivan's Island followed by a burger and icy cider on the porch at Poe's Tavern is pretty much the recipe for a perfect summer day.

the charleston bucket list.

My Charleston clock has started to tick, and that means it's time to start attacking my bucket list. It'll be tough, what with all the work I have to do over the next few weeks, and all the money I'm not going to have, but it needs to happen. If anyone wants to help me accomplish these goals, just holler.

* A lazy dinner on the patio at Rue de Jean with a shared bottle of bubbly.
* Long, slow strolls through Magnolia Cemetery.
* Margarita pitchers and guacamole with girlfriends at Santi's. And/or Taco Boy.
* A spa treatment at Charleston Place — so I can use the rooftop pool, too?
* Pimento cheese-and-bacon hotdogs, Firefly moonshine cocktails, and boiled peanuts at the RiverDogs game.
* Sunny, salty days on Sullivan's Island.
* Sunset harbor cruise on a catamaran.
* Picnic, concert, and fireworks at Middleton Place plantation.
* Walk the Ravenel Bridge.
* Cocktails and frisee salad at the bar at FIG.
* Swinging by Goat Sheep Cow to pick up supplies for a sunset picnic on the Battery.
* Dinner out on Johns Island at the Wild Olive. And under the twinkling lights at Pane e Vino. And at the Ordinary.

Funny how it all revolves around food, right? It's the Charleston way.

boston bound.

Well, I've officially told everyone who needs to know, so I guess I can now tell my blog that Todd and I are moving to Boston this summer. A lot of people I've told have had the same reaction: A look of shock and confusion, an occasional wrinkled nose, followed by "Why?"

The number one reason is simple: Because we want to. It's what led us to Charleston, and what will no doubt lead us to whatever city comes after Boston, yet it's an answer that most people seem unwilling to accept. Why is living exactly where you want to live such a foreign concept?

I love the size of Boston, that it's big yet approachable, with unique neighborhoods all throughout the city. I love that it's historic, with centuries-old buildings reflected against shining skyscrapers. I love that its population is diverse, and intelligent, and friendly, in their own way. And I love that in just a few hours I can get to Portland, Newport, Cape Cod, or New Hampshire's White Mountains. I can even drive to Montreal in the time it would take me to drive to Atlanta. Yes, I'm dreading the winter a bit, but I can't tell you how excited I am to have distinct seasons. I've missed those. 

So to everyone asking "Why?," I'll just say "Why not?"

ode to hampton park.

I've written about my love of Hampton Park before, but I really can't say enough about one of my favorite places in Charleston. Now that it's a block from my house, I stroll over with the pup several times a week. It's the perfect way to end a long day.

A lot of people don't know about the park — even people who grew up here — so it feels a bit like a hidden gem. That said, more and more people seem to be discovering its charms, and it's so nice to see the grounds full of runners, picnic-ers, cyclists, and people walking their dogs.

I rarely see them at work, but the park's volunteers do an amazing job with the gardens — they always seem to be in bloom. In the early spring, the azaleas and camellias flood the park with vibrant pinks and reds. Later in the summer, the hydrangeas explode with bright blue and purple blooms (I'm always tempted to steal a few stems!), and the magnolias fill the park with their fragrance. Right now the roses are peaking — stop by soon and take a sniff, and maybe scramble up a sprawling live oak while you're at it.

photos taken with my iPhone.

closet case.

Between the Wine + Food Festival, Best of Charleston, and Fashion Week, March has been absolutely bananas around these parts. Although I cut back on my CFW coverage this year, I did have a lot of fun putting together City Paper's inaugural Style Issue. The idea was to peek into the closets of local stylish folks, and I had so much fun snooping on people like Chassity Evans and Brett Carron. I didn't even realize until later that there's a blog that does the exact same thing. Great minds think alike, I suppose.

This is Chassity. I showed up for our interview wearing the exact same Gap pants as her. If you haven't read her blog, you should.

And this is Harper Poe. You've probably seen her Proud Mary pillows and bags all over Pinterest.

The only problem with all of this inspiration? I desperately want to overhaul my closet. Right now. What are you buying this spring? I'm partial to bright pants and brighter lips.

dogs at the beach.

On Sunday we took Muni and his cousin Sammy to Sullivan's Island to play in the water. Although technically dogs aren't allowed off-leash on local beaches (unless you're a crazy early bird), the beaches are fairly empty in the winter so you won't be hassled.

Sammy enjoyed chasing his ball into the tidepool, while Muni preferred to wait in the shallows or run along the surf. Seriously, there's nothing more joyful than a dog allowed to run free on the beach.

boat times.

Last weekend we went out on a friend's sailboat for the Parade of Boats. The parade includes dozens of boats, from yachts to kayaks, all decked out in lights and decorations. On the shore, people line up on both sides of the harbor to watch the event. We drank champagne, roasted hotdogs, and wondered why we don't do this every weekend.

alleys and entryways.

Yesterday I had an interview with an artist downtown, and I was actually happy when he was late — it gave me a chance to take a little stroll around the French Quarter. Fall in Charleston is fickle — some days are 80 degrees, some days are freezing. But yesterday was just right with light breezes and crunchy, colorful leaves on the sidewalk.

sticky bun sundays.

Sticky Bun Sundays are a tradition at WildFlour in downtown Charleston (I wrote about it for the paper here). Award-winning pastry chef Lauren Mitterer only makes her addictive sticky buns on Sunday, so we stopped by this morning for a little decadence before a sweaty bike ride around the peninsula. (Can you tell I've had sweets on the brain lately? It's gotten a little out of control.)

Downtown bike rides are another favorite tradition, albeit one we haven't kept up lately because it's been so hot. We explored an overgrown cemetery, stole windowbox ideas from South of Broad houses, and saw some dolphins playing in the harbor down by the Battery. 

What's your favorite thing to do on a Sunday morning?

sugar.

Sugar Bakeshop is one of my favorite bakeries in Charleston. Not only are the treats to die for — try the butterscotch cookies and/or the coconut cupcake —but the place is so darn cute I feel like squealing every time I go in there.

Cannonborough.

When people visit Charleston, they usually stick to the high-traffic tourist spots like the City Market, the Battery, and King Street. These areas are all worth checking out, especially if you're a newbie, but I think a lot of visitors miss out on some of Charleston's coolest places because they're a little off the grid.

One of my favorite districts is Cannonborough/Elliotborough. It's an up-and-coming area off of King that boasts some of the city's most design-forward shops, businesses, and restaurants. Places like Hope & Union, Wildflour, Mac & Murphy, Stems, Fuzzco, Leigh Magar, and Stitch call the neighborhood home.

The area's newest addition is Two Boroughs Larder, a place so perfectly styled I want to move in. The rustic tables, metal chairs, cute napkins and glassware, and vintage-style light fixtures are all perfect. They even bring your check out in a little mason jar. It's pretty to look at, but the food is also top-notch. I had a King Bean (local) iced coffee with a salad of arugula, apples, golden beets, white wonder cucumbers, blueberries, and buttermilk black pepper vinaigrette.

After stuffing our faces, we stopped by newish menswear shop Indigo & Cotton and it made me wish I was a dude.

Stay tuned for a peek into one of my favorite Cannonborough bakeries.